One key aspect of advanced ice climbing is efficiency of movement. Experienced climbers understand the importance of conserving energy and minimizing unnecessary exertion. This means mastering techniques such as the ‘rest step’, where climbers pause briefly between steps to rest and recover, and the ‘flat-foot technique’, which involves placing the entire front part of the boot on the ice, providing a stable platform for resting or preparing the next move. These subtle adjustments can make all the difference when tackling long, strenuous routes.

Route selection is another critical factor for advanced ice climbers. Choosing the most efficient and safest line up a pitch requires careful analysis of the ice conditions, taking into account factors like ice thickness, angle, and the presence of bulges or overhangs. Experienced climbers also learn to identify and avoid potential hazards, such as brittle or fragile ice, and to recognize when it’s necessary to alter their technique to match the unique characteristics of each pitch. This ability to ‘read’ the ice and adapt their approach accordingly sets advanced climbers apart.

Leading and protecting on ice is another crucial skill set. Placing screws into ice that is likely to break or shatter requires a keen eye and practiced technique. Advanced climbers develop a sense for the best placement, understanding the importance of screw length and the number of threads engaged in the ice. They also become adept at building solid anchors, taking into account the unique challenges posed by ice climbing, such as the potential for melting and the dynamic nature of the medium.